The Lesser Sunda Islands
Shore
Programs & Excursions
Sumbawa & Sumbawa Besar (or Badas)
-- the Island's
Ancient Capital
The island of Sumbawa is located between Lombok and Komodo and stretches 280
kilometers in an east-west direction and between 15 and 90 kilometers
north-south. The terrain is rough and mountainous without any fertile plain. The
eruption of 2,850 meter high Mount Tambora in 1815 was according to the
"Guinness Book of World Records" the greatest in known history during which over
150 cubic kilometers of rock and ash were propelled upward.
Badas, also called "Sumbawa Besar", is the
ancient capital of the western part of Sumbawa. In the 14th. century, this
island became prosperous through trade in native horses, rare timber, and the
fragrant sandalwood. The Buginese of South Sulawesi introduced Islam to Sumbawa
and installed a lineage of royal sultans in Bima in the east. A Muslim
adventurer from South Kalimantan seized the throne in Sumbawa Besar in 1820.
The town and its surrounding villages offer insights into this centuries old
culture. The various ancient tribes living on Sumbawa are divided into two
linguistic groups which for many centuries could not understand each others
languages. During your visit to this island you'll experience a mixture of
multiple cultures and exotic customs.
The Island of Komodo
-- the last home of fierce dragons
from the Jurassic age.
Komodo, a hilly island of dry tropical savannah,
is located between Sumbawa and Flores about 500 kilometers east of Bali.
The 600 people living in the island's only village are descendants of
convicts sent in the past from Flores to Komodo as a punishment.
The
island is the home of deer, wild boar, sulphur-crested cockatoos, noisy friar
birds, and rare, mound-building megapode birds. Ballen whales and dolphins are
often sighted in the water, and so are sharks, sea snakes and saltwater
crocodiles which can reach 7 meters in length. The Komodo National Park is the
habitat of the world's largest pre-historic lizard, also known as the "Komodo
Dragon".
The Komodo Dragon (varanus komodensis) was
discovered as late as 1911. This huge monitor lizard is a relic from the age of
the carnivorous Dinosaurs about 130 million years ago. Everywhere else in the
world these fierce reptiles have been extinct since the Jurassic age. Their
current number on Komodo is estimated to be around 1,600. There are also about
600 dragons living on nearby Rinca island and some others on Flores.
Komodo Dragons grow up to three meters in length and weigh as much as
two hundred kilograms. They have fearsome looking jaws which can disjoint to
swallow large chunks of their prey, strong legs with sharp claws, and a tail
which is a dangerous weapon. Their flicking, forged tongue protrudes up to half
a meter and is used to taste and smell. They are said to be able to smell a prey
from 8 kilometers away.
In spite of their size, these huge reptiles can
run very fast, and they are good swimmers and climbers. They are not afraid of
the sea, and one dragon which was exiled to Flores after killing a 12 year old
boy on Rinca island returned on its own, swimming back. Young dragons can
sometimes be seen in trees preying for monkeys. Adults devour deer, goats, wild
pigs, as well as members of their own species, and they can even swallow whole
young water buffalos. A number of humans including Western travellers have been
attacked and killed when exploring the island on their own.
- Visiting the Komodo Dragons
After an early breakfast you start
in small groups the easy 4-kilometer walk into the wildlife preserve around
7:00 a.m. when it's still cool and the dragons are most active. You are
escorted by experienced Park Rangers and will be able to safely view and
photograph the dangerous reptiles at close range from a special area
surrounded by a fence. You might see one or two dragons already during your
walk to the "dragon area" where you will see at least three or four but
sometimes many more of these huge lizards.
After lunch back on board you
will be able to visit "Pink Beach" which offers excellent snorkeling.
Lombok -- Bali's different Neighbour
Lombok -- Bali's eastern neighbour -- is often
described as "Bali before Tourism". Large areas of this island are still rather
untouched, and many people are as poor as Bali's inhabitants were 40 or 50 years
ago.
A visit to these villages -- where people still live in primitive
mud huts with a dirt floor and without doors, and have hardly any personal
belongings, decent medical care or a chance to obtain reasonable education -- is
highly recommended for those visitors who like to complain that Bali has been
"spoiled" and the locals have "not preserved" their way of life.
Fauna
and flora in Lombok are also quite different from Bali because the island is
located East of the "Wallace Line" and governed by Australian climatic
influences. You won't see much of Bali's lush green tropical vegetation but
instead only bananas and coconut palms, many thorny plants, and scrubby, barren
hills. The island is towered over by one of Indonesia's highest mountains, the
3,726 meter high, still active volcano Gunung Rinjani in the North.
The
natives of Lombok, the Sasaks, are officially Moslems which, however,
unofficially retain many of their ancient animist beliefs and practices. They
grow rice and, to a lesser extent, coffee, kapok, tobacco, and cotton. The
island is also known for traditional weaving, plaited basketware, bags and mats,
and it's worthwhile visiting some villages specializing in one of these crafts.
The island's capital is Mataram where you can visit an interesting local
market. All international standard hotels are located near Sengiggi Beach,
although there are also a few nice beaches (without proper hotel facilities) on
the other side of the island. The three Gili islands are a short boat ride away
from Sengiggi and offer white beaches and crystal clear water -- ideal for
snorkeling and diving. However, accommodation on these tiny islands is quite
primitive.
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